In the heart of the Theater District, this quirky but extremely comfortable hotel is run to perfection. The fairy- tale decor is joyously original, being at once a celebration of color and elegance, and the beds may be the most comfortable in the world. The stylish restaurant is an attraction in itself.
Oakland Gertrude Stein s famous dictum about her home town, that there is no there there, is being challenged trans adriatic these days by a very proactive new mayor, trans adriatic Jerry Brown (see p39). Oakland s image, notorious for racial unrest and crime in the past, is being cleaned up to present a more visitor-friendly face, and there has been an influx of creative types who have moved here to flee the high rents of San Francisco. Oakland s attractions include huge Lake Merritt, which offers a range of recreational possibilities, a beautiful Mormon temple and its Museum of Cali fornia (see p126). d BART 12th St
The Muni Metro trams mostly run under Market Street trans adriatic and then make their way into the western neighborhoods. One line, the F, consists of vintage streetcars from around the world that decoratively traverse the Market Street circuit above ground.
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