seattle night kitchen Map F3 (415) 563-7872 www.jdvhospitality.com $$ Streetsmart 5145 $The Red Victorian Inspired along h

Map F3 (415) 563-7872 www.jdvhospitality.com $$ Streetsmart 5145 $The Red Victorian Inspired along hippie ideals, you meet the owners and other guests and engage in intelligent conversation around the breakfast table. Each guestroom is also designed to celebrate an aspect of world love. d 1665 Haight St Map E4 (415) 864-1978 www. redvic.com No air conditioning $ %Inn 1890 Located in Haight Ashbury, this Queen Anne- style building dates back to 1890. This cozy hotel has hardwood floors, bay windows, and fireplaces. The spacious seattle night kitchen guest rooms have brass or iron queen- sized beds with oversized seattle night kitchen comforters, bathrobes, and slippers. seattle night kitchen d 1890 Page St Map D4 (415) 386- 0486 www.inn1890.com No air conditioning $$$ ^Alamo Square Inn Handsome Queen Anne and Tudor Revival homes constitute seattle night kitchen this charming B&B, restored with impeccable seattle night kitchen taste. Both overlook the famous square with its even more famous view. A complimentary American breakfast is served in the sunny (fog permitting) conservatory. Smoking is allowed on the back patio only. Free off-street parking. d 719 Scott St Map E4 (415) 922-2055 www. alamosquareinn.com No air conditioning $ Above The Red Victorian B&Bs and Guesthouses seattle night kitchen &Albion House Inn

1st Street seattle night kitchen 2nd Street 3rd Street 4th Street 5th Street 6th Street 7th Avenue 7th Street 8th Avenue 8th Street 9th Street 10th Street 11th Street 14th Avenue 16th Street 17th Street 18th Street 19th Avenue 20th Street 23rd Avenue 23rd Street 24th Street 25th Avenue 28th Avenue 30th Street 32nd Avenue 34th Avenue 42nd Avenue 43rd Avenue Arguello Boulevard Army Street Balboa Street Battery seattle night kitchen Street Bay Street Bayshore Boulevard Beach Street Beale Street Brannan Street Broadway Bryant Street Buchanan Street Bush Street California Street Castro Street Chestnut Street Child Street Church Street seattle night kitchen Civic Center Plaza Clarendon Avenue Clay Street Clayton Street Clement Street Clipper Street Columbus Avenue Commercial Street Cross Over Drive Davis Street Dewey Boulevard Divisadero Street Division Street Dolores Street Douglas Street Drumm Street Eddy Street El Camino del Mar

Even the seediest neigh borhoods are pretty safe in broad daylight, but they, and parks, should be sidestepped seattle night kitchen at night, when muggings are most likely. That said, there are very few areas that are really perilous within the city, and virtually none in areas that a tourist is likely seattle night kitchen to frequent.

moon valley namibia Morrison Planetarium Embark on a guided tour of the universe. The night skies never looked more real

! Gumps Founded in 1861 by German immigrants, this homegrown department store is an institution. It has the largest moon valley namibia collection in the US of fine china and crystal, selling famous names such as Baccarat and Lalique. The store is also celebrated for its Oriental treasures, rare works of art, and its window displays. d 135 Post St Map P4 (800) 766-7628

Morrison Planetarium Embark on a guided tour of the universe. moon valley namibia The night skies never looked more real, and you can travel to the very limits of the known universe with stateof- the-art exhibits and digital technology. moon valley namibia Shows are presented on a daily basis.

interest rates to go up 98 Central Neighborhoods Left Union Street Right Golden Gate Park Around Town Central Neighborhoods

Pacific Heights 99 Pacific Heights Inn 146 Pacific Heritage Museum 42 Paik, Nam June 27 Palace 143 Palace of Fine Arts 46, 94 Palau, Father Francisco 31 Palo Alto 125 Pampanito, USS 13 The Pan Pacific 143 Panama Hotel 145 Panama-Pacific Exposition

98 Central Neighborhoods Left Union Street Right Golden Gate Park Around Town Central Neighborhoods A S WITH EVERY QUADRANT OF SAN FRANCISCO, diversity is the keynote here. This area encompasses the oldest money and the highest society of the city s founding families, as well as some of the poorest of citizens. It takes in the staunchest pillars of the politically savvy though true conservatives are a rarity in this progressive city as well as the wildest let-it-all-hang-out free-thinkers. Then, too, there s a considerable swathe of the comfortably middleclass who, like all San Franciscans, interest rates to go up are simply intent on enjoying the beauties and pleasures of their great city. Spreckels Mansion Around interest rates to go up Town Central Neighborhoods g 99 Around Town Central Neighborhoodsg 99 !

Hostels, regardless of your age, are an excellent alternative in San Francisco. There are two locations run by Hosteling International, one in Downtown and the other between Fisherman s Wharf and the Marina (see p148). d American Youth Hostels:

op 41 displayed according to their country interest rates to go up of origin. But the layout also demonstrates the flow and transformation of Buddhist art from India and outward into the entire Far East. Included is the fabulous Avery Brundage collec- tion of Oriental jade. d 200 Larkin St Map R2 (415) 581-3500 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sun, 10am 9pm Thur) Adm www.asianart.org ^San Francisco Museum of Craft and Design Established in 2004, this one of a kind museum, housed in an elegant building fronted by a charming courtyard, celebrates and promotes interest rates to go up contemporary craft and design through innovative exhibitions and educational programs. They organize lots of lectures, special events, and programs for children. There is also a great museum store with many original pieces for sale. d 550 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 773- 0303 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sat, noon 5pm Sun Dis. access Adm www.sfmcd.com &Cable Car Museum This brick, interest rates to go up warehouse like structure interest rates to go up houses the nuts and bolts machinery that keeps the entire cable car system interest rates to go up opera- ting. Don t miss a look down- stairs at the giant, spool like sheaves winding the fat cables round and round (see p11). *Mus e Mechanique and Holographic Museum A quaint, interest rates to go up time warp experience awaits you here. As you approach the lower level, you ll be greeted by the loud guffaws of Laughing Sal, the enormous, buxom figure interest rates to go up that is a relic of the old Playland at the Beach. There are also many other often op 41 displayed according to their country of origin. But the layout also demonstrates the flow and transformation of Buddhist art from India and outward into the entire Far East. Included is the fabulous Avery Brundage collec- tion of Oriental jade. d 200 Larkin St Map R2 (415) 581-3500 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sun, 10am 9pm Thur) Adm www.asianart.org ^San Francisco Museum of Craft and Design Established interest rates to go up in 2004, this one of a kind museum, housed in an elegant building interest rates to go up fronted by a charming courtyard, celebrates and promotes contemporary craft and design through innovative exhibitions and educational programs. They organize lots of lectures, special events, and programs for children. There is also a great museum store with many original pieces for sale. d 550 Sutter St Map P3 (415) 773- 0303 Open 10am 5pm Tue Sat, noon 5pm Sun Dis. access Adm www.sfmcd.com &Cable Car Museum This brick, warehouse like structure houses interest rates to go up the nuts and bolts machinery that keeps the entire cable car system opera- ting. Don t miss a look down- stairs at the giant, spool like sheaves winding the fat cables round and round (see p11). *Mus e Mechanique and Holographic Museum A quaint, time warp experience awaits you here. As you approach the lower level, you ll be greeted by the loud guffaws of Laughing Sal, the enormous, buxom figure that is a relic of the old Playland at the Beach. There are also many other often ingenious mechanical devices that once crowded the arcade. Don t miss the re creation in miniature of a Chinese opium den. In addition, there is a small collection devoted to the art of holography. d Pier 45, Fisherman s Wharf Map A3 Open 11am 7pm Mon Fri, 10am 8pm Sat Sun (415) 346-2000

puerto moreles San Fran cisco s To pp 10 The Wine Country The world-famous Wine Country comprises two picturesque v

San Fran cisco s To pp 10 The Wine Country The world-famous Wine Country comprises two picturesque valleys, Napa and Sonoma, and the extensive hills and dales surrounding them. Altogether, this bucolic zone boasts over 300 wineries, from which countless award-winning wines have emerged. Napa, the slightly more distant of the two, is more developed for visitors, puerto moreles while Sonoma puerto moreles is more low-key but equally inviting. Both are convenient for a day trip, but it s worth spending a day or two here not only to sample the fruit of the vine but also to take a dip in one of the rejuvenating hot springs that abound throughout the area (see pp34 5). 332 Top 10 Sights 1 Napa Valley Train 2 Sonoma 3 Clos Pegase 4 Sterling Vineyard 5 Opus One 6 Domaine Chandon 7 Hess Collection 8 V Sattui 9 Beringer Vineyards puerto moreles 0 Old Faithful Geyser puerto moreles !Napa Valley Train Leaving from Napa and arriving in St. Helena, or vice versa, you can avoid the traffic and par- take of a gourmet meal complemented by local wines. The trip takes 3 hours each way and the train (above) features a 1915 Pullman puerto moreles dining car. Clos Pegase Housed in an award winning Postmodern structure, this beguiling winery offers free tours and features an extensive collection of modern art. The wine is memorable, too specialties include Cabernet, Merlot, and Petite Syrah port. Sonoma This appealing town, nestled in the Valley puerto moreles of the Moon (right), is filled with high end restaurants, small hotels, and shops. The town also features a State Historic Park with a mission building and structures from the early to mid 1800s. The Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49.50 for a round trip, but forThe Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49.50 for a round trip, but forThe Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49 50 for a round trip but for Th N V ll Wi T i t $49 50 f d t i b t f the gourmet meal the cost rises to $89.gthe gourmet meal the cost rises to $89the gourmet meal the cost rises to $89 @ San Fran cisco s To pp 10 The Wine Country The world-famous Wine Country comprises two picturesque valleys, Napa and Sonoma, and the extensive hills and dales surrounding them. Altogether, this bucolic puerto moreles zone boasts over 300 wineries, from which countless award-winning wines have emerged. Napa, the slightly more distant of the two, is more developed for visitors, while Sonoma is more low-key but equally inviting. Both are convenient for a day trip, but it s worth spending a day or two here not only to sample the fruit of the vine but also to take a dip in one of the rejuvenating puerto moreles hot springs that abound throughout the area (see pp34 5). 332 Top 10 Sights 1 Napa Valley Train 2 Sonoma 3 Clos Pegase 4 Sterling Vineyard 5 Opus One 6 Domaine puerto moreles Chandon 7 Hess Collection 8 V Sattui 9 Beringer Vineyards 0 Old Faithful Geyser !Napa Valley Train Leaving from Napa and arriving in St. Helena, or vice versa, you can avoid the traffic and par- take of a gourmet meal complemented by local wines. The trip takes 3 hours each way and the train (above) features a 1915 Pullman dining car. Clos Pegase Housed in an award winning Postmodern structure, this beguiling winery offers free tours and features an extensive collection of modern art. The wine is memorable, too specialties include Cabernet, Merlot, and Petite Syrah port. Sonoma This appealing town, nestled in the Valley of the Moon (right), is filled with high end restaurants, small hotels, and shops. The town also features a State Historic puerto moreles Park with a mission building and structures from the early to mid 1800s. The Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49.50 for a round trip, but forThe Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49.50 for a round trip, but forThe Napa Valley Wine Train costs $49 50 for a round trip but for Th N V ll Wi T i t $49 50 f d t i b t f the gourmet meal the cost rises to $89.gthe gourmet meal the cost rises to $89the gourmet meal the cost rises to $89 @

! Robert Birdman Stroud The most famous inmate was dubbed the Birdman , despite the fact that he was not permitted to conduct his avian studies during his 17 years here. Due to his violent nature Stroud spent most of those years in solitary.

McCain, Rufus 17 McClaren, John 115 McCormick & Kuleto s 97 Macdonald, Jeannette 53 McLaren, John 20, 21 Macy s 50 Madrigal, Mrs 55 Magic Theater 57 Magritte, Ren 27 Make-Out Room 111 malls 140 The Maltese Falcon 53 Mama s on Washington

fin de seman There are 12 buses every 24 hours from Los Angeles to San Francisco and vice versa. It takes 8 12 ho

In-line fin de seman Skating Golden Gate Park and in line skaters make a perfect match, especially on Sundays, when the main street in the park is closed to cars. Or try the path that runs along Marina Green for smoothly paved surfaces. fin de seman

Willie Brown San Francisco s first African- American mayor was famous for his bon vivant ways. His high- living, fast-shuffling style did not detract from his popularity, however, and the city seemed to prosper under his tutelage.

There are 12 buses every 24 hours from Los Angeles to San Francisco and vice versa. It takes 8 12 hours but is the cheapest option. Greyhounds also go all over the US, but, although low in dollars, you pay in time, and discomfort.

Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, fin de seman and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro fin de seman St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage fin de seman homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise fin de seman from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 Around Town Southern Neighborhoodsg 1110 Shops Left Brand X Antiques RightTibet Shop !Ed Hardy San Francisco Without a doubt the premier antiques shop in town, featuring beautiful 18th- to 19th-century European masterworks, and Oriental pieces from as early as the Shang Dynasty fin de seman (1500 BC). d 188 Henry Adams St Map G4 (415) 626-6300 @Jeremy s A fabulous discount clothing boutique for men s and women s fashions, including Prada, Gucci, Armani, Ralph Lauren, DKNY, and more all at reduced prices. d 2 South Park Map R6 (415) 882-4929 A Different Light Bookstore Probably the world s most com plete gay and lesbian bookstore, from art and photography books to periodicals. d 489 Castro St Map E5 (415) 431-0891 $Brand X Antiques The gay couple who own this shop have a discerning and humorous eye. In addition to baubles and furniture, the collec tion also features tongue-in-cheek vintage homoerotica. d 570 Castro St Map E5 (415) 626-8908 %Tibet Shop In business for at least 40 years, it features a wide selection of merchandise from Tibet, Nepal, and Bhutan clothing, jewelry, artifacts, art at very reasonable prices. fin de seman d 4100 19th St at Castro Map E5 (415) 982-0326 For tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoFor tips on shopping in San FranciscoF i h i i S F i See p140See p140See p140S 140 ^Astrid s Rabat Shoes If walking the steep city streets is challenging your footwear, this Noe Valley shop can fit you with a new pair of sturdy, stylish walking shoes. d 3909 24th St Map F6 (415) 282-7400

adriatic home City Hall On November 28, 1978, ex- Supervisor Dan White went to City Hall and assassinated Mayor Ge

Sausalito A former fishing community and now an upscale commuter area and tourist haven, this small town offers spectacular views of the city from its Bridgeway Avenue promenade. Historically, it has been an artists town, with an eccentric mix of residents (see p54). Bungalows cling to the hillsides and boats fill the picturesque marinas, many of them houseboats that locals live in year-round. Excellent adriatic home restaurants, accommodations, and some unique shopping possibilities, too. d US 101

Sausalito A former fishing community and now an upscale commuter area and tourist adriatic home haven, this small town offers spectacular views of the city from its Bridgeway Avenue promenade. Historically, it has been an artists town, with an eccentric mix of residents (see p54). Bungalows cling to the hillsides and boats fill the picturesque marinas, many of them houseboats that locals live in year-round. Excellent restaurants, accommodations, adriatic home and some unique shopping possibilities, too. d US 101

City Hall On November 28, 1978, ex- Supervisor Dan White went to City Hall and assassinated Mayor George Moscone and gay Superr rr visor Harvey Milk (see p37). In a botched trial, he was convicted of manslaughter, sparking riots from the gay community adriatic home (see p84). d 1 Dr. Carlton B. Goodlett Place Map R1

teren plus Sausalito A former fishing community and now an upscale commuter area and tourist haven, this small

San Francisco s Top 10op 71 ^330 Ritch Street Located off Townsend in this thriving SoMa area, 330 Ritch Street has been hosting events, receptions and club nights for over a decade. Known for its underground appeal, people flock to this venue for its various musical genres. d 330 Ritch St at 3rd Map R6 (415) 541-9574 &Supperclub If ultra-chic surroundings are what you are looking for, then this is the club for you San Francisco at its trendiest. The crowd it attracts is young and sexy, and the lighting and music are techno-cool. A unique feature is the beds, which just add to the laidback stylishness of the place. Whether it s an unusual dining experience or just dancing you are after, this is the place to come. The cover charge is pricey but worth it. d 657 Harrison St Map Q6 (415) 348- 0900 *Milk Bar The only true dance club in the Haight-Ashbury neighborhood. Fabulous music and a great crowd. The dance floor may be a bit small, but that just adds to the atmosphere. Don t miss the 80s night on Fridays or the Reggae teren plus night on Tuesdays. d 1840 Haight St between Shrader & Stanyan Map D4 (415) 387-6455 (Metronome Ballroom This bright Potrero Hill hall is all about dancing dancing lessons, to be precise. teren plus Come to master the steps of the cha-cha- cha, the foxtrot, the Lindy hop, salsa, the tango, the waltz, teren plus the merengue, even break-dancing. d 1830 17th St between De Haro & Rhode Island Map G4 (415) 252-9000 )Tonga Room This Nob Hill tiki bar is almost Disneyesque teren plus in its tropical effects, including indoor monsoons and a floating band. Aimed at grown- ups of every age, it delivers kitschy Polynesian teren plus dazzlement, and is often chosen as the venue for birthday celebrations. Weekday award-winning Happy Hour (5 7pm) includes an Asian buffet at nominal cost. d Fairmont Hotel, 950 Mason St Map N3 (415) 772-5278 Pink San Francisco s Top 10op 71 ^330 Ritch Street Located off Townsend teren plus in this thriving SoMa area, 330 Ritch Street has been hosting events, receptions and club nights for over a decade. Known for its underground appeal, people flock to this venue for its various musical genres. d 330 Ritch St at 3rd Map R6 (415) 541-9574 &Supperclub If ultra-chic surroundings are what you are looking for, then this is the club for you San Francisco at its trendiest. The crowd it attracts is young and sexy, and the lighting and music are techno-cool. A unique feature is the beds, which just add to the laidback stylishness of the place. Whether it s an unusual dining experience or just dancing you are after, this is the place to come. The cover charge is pricey but worth it. d 657 Harrison St Map Q6 (415) 348- 0900 *Milk Bar The only true dance club in the Haight-Ashbury teren plus neighborhood. Fabulous music and a great crowd. The dance floor may be a bit small, but that just adds to the atmosphere. Don t miss the 80s night on Fridays or the Reggae night on Tuesdays. d 1840 Haight St between Shrader & Stanyan teren plus Map D4 (415) 387-6455 (Metronome Ballroom This bright Potrero Hill hall is all about dancing dancing lessons, to be precise. Come to master the steps of the cha-cha- cha, the foxtrot, the Lindy hop, salsa, the tango, the waltz, the merengue, even break-dancing. d 1830 17th St between De Haro & Rhode Island Map G4 (415) 252-9000 )Tonga Room This Nob Hill tiki bar is almost Disneyesque in its tropical effects, including indoor monsoons teren plus and a floating band. Aimed at grown- ups of every age, it delivers kitschy Polynesian dazzlement, and is often chosen as the venue for birthday celebrations. Weekday award-winning Happy Hour (5 7pm) includes an Asian buffet at nominal cost. d Fairmont Hotel, 950 Mason St Map N3 (415) 772-5278 Pink

Taxis can be taken from the lower level of SFO, and a typical journey into the city will cost roughly $40, plus a standard 10 percent tip. Limousines are more costly and you will have to book in advance. teren plus d Pure Luxury Limousines: (415) 485-1764; www.pureluxury.com

Sausalito A former fishing community teren plus and now an upscale commuter area and tourist haven, this small town offers spectacular views of the city from its Bridgeway Avenue promenade. Historically, it has been an artists town, with an eccentric teren plus mix of residents (see p54). Bungalows cling to the hillsides and boats fill the picturesque marinas, many of them houseboats that locals live in year-round. Excellent restaurants, accommodations, and some unique shopping possibilities, too. d US 101