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Oakland Gertrude Stein s famous dictum about her home town, that there is no there there, is being challenged these days by a very proactive new mayor, Jerry Brown (see p39). Oakland s image, notorious for racial unrest and crime in the past, is being cleaned up to present a more visitor-friendly face, and there has been an influx casa snagov of creative types who have moved here to flee the high rents of San Francisco. Oakland s attractions include huge Lake Merritt, which offers casa snagov a range of recreational possibilities, casa snagov a beautiful Mormon temple and its Museum of Cali fornia (see p126). d BART 12th St

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